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Can You Use Acrylic Paint as Resin Pigment?

Resin Art on a Shoestring

When you’re staring at a blank canvas—or a fresh batch of clear resin—ideas don’t always flow alongside a healthy bank account. The price difference between professional resin pigment and a small tube of acrylic paint jumps out. More than once, I’ve opened my studio drawer, eyed those half-squeezed paint tubes, and wondered if they’d behave with resin just as nicely as with canvas.

Mixing Worlds: Acrylics and Resin

Acrylic paint and epoxy resin are both popular for creative projects, but they’re built for different jobs. Acrylic paint’s water-based backbone makes cleanup less frustrating. Resin, especially the epoxy type, pushes for chemical stability, toughness and that unmistakable glassy finish. Many folks on online forums and YouTube channels try tossing a bit of regular acrylic paint into their resin, hoping for custom color without extra shopping. I’ve seen some gorgeous projects made that way, but also more than a few ruined pours.

The truth is, acrylics work—up to a degree. It only takes a little experimentation to find the breaking point. Too much acrylic paint in resin, and the whole batch may cloud up, stay sticky for days, or never set at all. The paint contains water, which doesn’t play nice with resin chemistry. Bits of pigment or binder can clump together, leaving cloudy spots or flakes in your piece. Even thin layers that seem “dry” might start chalking or shedding once cured.

Chasing the Perfect Pour

Plenty of people reach for what’s available. Back when I started with resin, I didn’t think twice about using leftover acrylics. I learned quickly: less is more. A small drop might color resin well enough if you keep the ratio close to a few percent. Anything past that, and you risk soft curing or even full-on tacky disasters. Manufacturers like ArtResin and Pro Marine warn against introducing anything water-based. They’ve done the lab tests—once water gets in, the structure suffers.

Those who stick with acrylics tend to use more opaque colors and stick to accent work—think jewelry, petri dishes, maybe a thin tinted top layer on a coaster. Pieces you want to stay clear or remain untouched by the sun work better with proper resin colorants and mica powders made specifically for this task. Experienced crafters and artists, the ones who sell or gift their work, usually invest in resin-safe pigments, alcohol inks, or quality dyes to keep their results predictable.

A Safer Path for Consistent Results

DIYers will always experiment—art asks for it. If you enjoy the unpredictable and aren’t worried about archival quality, there’s room to play. For projects that need to last, stick to pigments tested for resin. Labels mean something in this case, and so does longevity. My mistakes—and those from others—pile up in bins out back. Some pieces yellow, bubble, or turn gummy over months. Only a few survive the test of time.

If money stands in the way, consider stretching professional pigments by mixing them with clear base colors or buying the smallest trial sets. Shops and online collectives sometimes swap samples. Local maker spaces often offer group buys or discounted materials for members. Smart shopping and honest conversation in creative circles save more projects than shortcuts do.